Who Has invented the Sewing machine?

Why the sewing machine so long has not been invented?

Hours, the weapon, mechanical weaving looms, automatic and mechanical musical machines were in regular use to the beginning of 1800. Many of these devices are much more complex(difficult), than the sewing machine.

Before the sewing machine has appeared, creation of clothes was the main employment(occupation) of half of mankind. As this work should be executed manually, it was labour-consuming and necessary employment(occupation).

19-th century was basic time for the majority of inventions and it is not surprising, that during this period many men paid attention for development of devices to make sewing stitches mechanically.

The first, to me a known mention of really working sewing machine:

The earliest sewing machine - patented by Thomas Saint in 1790 г.

William Njuton Vajlson, directly the manufacturer of the sewing machine, has found figures in the London Patent bureau and has constructed the machine which worked after a small amount of regulators looper.
the Handle turns the unique conducting shaft, located is horizontal from above machines. Five mechanisms are located under a right angle and rotate together with conducting shaft. The mechanism nearest to the handle, cooperates with the big wheel having зубья. This interaction moves a wheel around of an axis periodically to move a working table a little to the right after each stitch of the sewing machine. The clips established on surfaces of a working table of the machine keep a processable material.

Photos from a museum of science Kensington, in London.

Before a needle it is located sewed, which all over again does an aperture in a material. A necessary condition for the given design to protect a string as it was supposed, that she passes through a leather.
So, in 1790 Thomas Sejnt has invented the machine with " a hanging hand ", the feeder (intended for short seams on a leather), with vertical an arrangement of a needle and bottom looper.

However, there are no real certificates of use of to destination given sewing machine.

1829, French tailor Bartelemi Timonnje has conceived the machine тамбурного a seam, capable to sew 200 stitches in one minute (the tailor sews approximately 30 stitches in one minute) which it patented the next year, in 1830. It was the continuous string (the same machine as Morey and Johnson, "repeatedly invented" in 1849).

Model of machine Bartelemi Timonnje which are taking place in the Museum of the Science, Kensington, in London.

It used a needle similar on tailor's sewed, which formed idle time тамбурный a seam from above a material.
the Needle, passing through a fabric and with зубцом under a right angle caught a string. To pass through a loop, the needle was developed  by the open end of a loop. After a tension of a string to grasp her, the needle turns on 180 degrees so that the new loop has been lead through a fabric. Further the needle falls through this new loop to take away a string again from under a fabric and to repeat a cycle.

Needle for sewing mechanically

In 1755 Charles Vejzentalem (Charles Weisenthal) had been received the patent
Britain № 701 on a two-edged needle for embroidery with ушком from one end of a needle. The patent of Britain № 30078 from October, 30, 1807 of Edward and William Hapmanov  on
the machine for manufacturing матерчатых belts or flat tapes in which needles with
ушком at the sharp end were used was known
also. The tailor from Vienna, Austrian Madersperger  in sewing
to the machine on which it(he) in 1839 has received the patent, used a needle with ушком at the sharp end.

A basis for the invention of the presen Sewing machine should become a combination of several inventions. Working it is synchronized to carry out three problems:

1. The string needs to be lead through a fabric. It is almost always done with the specified needle with глазком, which should rise on some distance to leave a loop under a fabric for an opportunity of its capture петлителем or a shuttle.

2. The fabric should be fixed on a surface of the machine for an opportunity of formation of this loop.

3. The material should be advanced between each stitch. Almost all machines now use " four submissions of movement " for realization of this condition.

we Shall consider some known mechanisms providing capture of a string from below of a fabric after formation of a loop by a needle with ушком.

1. The majority of the first machines used the Stitch of the lock since his first successful application approximately in 1844 Элиас Хоу used this principle by the machine which patented in 1846.

The given stitch will consist of two strings, one of which goes through a loop at the end of a needle and another is located from above, by the sewing machine, - on the coil in a shuttle. The shuttle all over again passes through the small loop of a string formed at the end of a needle. This system is not used for industrial machines because the small size required for a shuttle reduces quantity of a string which is possible for using.

The basic Тамбурный a seam

It - the most simple stitch, but it is not frequently used, because it(he) is not reliable if one end becomes free, all line will be easily dismissed.

the Line will consist only of one string which passes through глазок needles. The hook перекручивания catches a string under a fabric and holds her, further the needle rises, the fabric moves ahead also a needle again falls through a loop, удерживаемую a hook. The hook goes back, dumping the first loop and moves ahead again forward to remove the following loop which interferes with the first loop to leave upwards through a fabric.

Rotating Тамбурный a seam of the Hook

It - very clever device invented by James Dzhibbsom in 1857. Feature of a uniform hook is his rotation on an axis at which each stitch before to pass through the following loop, is overwound. It is difficult to represent it because the hook works in three measurements.
By this principle work modern пуговичные machines.

Varying shuttle

Instead of moving a shuttle through a loop in a needle, why to not transfer a string around of a shuttle? The string passes much more easy, thus the whole system can be more compact and consequently can work on the greater speed.

the Varying shuttle was used singer since 1879. This system was it is made in 1928 and till now it is successfully used in the majority of sewing machines.

Four submissions of movement

In early machines to move a fabric it was necessary to stop the machine. In some cases the material was зажат or is attached to the case to have an opportunity to sew the big length without a stop.

In 1854 four submissions of movement patented by Allan Vajlsonom have solved a problem very accurately. Almost all manufacturers have accepted this method of moving of a material forward after each stitch of the sewing machine.

SINGER'S PATENTS: LEGENDS AND THE FACTS

MARKOV A.M., The expert of a department of the intellectual property НИЦ "Algorithm" ,
the patent attorney of the Russian Federation, к.т.н., Saint Petersburg
the Most known legend in the environment of inventors: Singer has received the patent for a needle for the sewing machine with
an aperture from the sharp end and so has successfully made the patent formula, that nobody could with it
compete.
In the beginning there was a desire to receive the answer to one question: and whether such patent was? However in process
acquaintances to the patent documents concerning to the given theme, and to a history of creation sewing
machines, have come to light also other facts which, from our point of view, can be interesting modern
to the reader.

Isaac Merritt SINGER

Isaak Merrit Singer  was the American, and in twelve years having run away from a house,
has tried much, was even the actor, and the main thing - at him obviously was жилка the inventor. However it
the first machines: the power-saw bench and the machine for woodcarving have not led to to financial success.
Singer has created the first sewing machine in 1850. Appearing will of a case in workshop on
to repair of sewing machines, it will improve sewing machine Blodzhetta and Lerow . Singer subsequently told, that work has borrowed 11 days, and it
used 40 dollars of the partner. Earlier, in 1849 about what Singer also did not suspect, Блоджетт
and Лероу on the design have received patent US 6766.

THE FIRST PATENT

It is known, that Singer did not suspect and about patents for other sewing machines which at that time
operated in the USA. The first application for the design created by him has been made out during the period since September
1850 till March, 1851. As Singer asserted, it has addressed for registration of the patent in Нью-
York to Charles M.Keller  .1 Interestingly to note, that on the first sent by Singer
the patent has not been given to the application, she was or is withdrawn or отклонена2. The second application has acted(arrived) in
Patent department on April, 16 1851 and on it Singer's first patent № 8294 with following
the formula has been given: 3
" that I declare as the invention and would like to fix in the patent, will consist in the following:
1. Giving to a shuttle of additional advance after it has been stopped for
short circuits of a loop as it is described above, with the purpose of a tightening of a stitch when the pulse to this
is given to additional movement at presence and in a combination to progress of a fabric in
a return direction and final movement upwards needles as it has been described above so two
a thread will be tightened(delayed) at a time as it is described above.
2. Adjustment of a thread at movement of a needle downwards a combination of a frictional lining to the purpose
prevention of sagging of a string above a fabric with that purpose and that way which have been described
above.
3. Accommodation of the reel from which the thread for a needle moves, on the adjustable console attached
to a frame, according to the previous description, besides, that it is combined with протягиванием
the above-stated string through ушко or directing needles attached to the carrier and moving
together with it as it is described above. And it is possible to set any desirable length of a string for
formations of a loop without change of a range of movement of a needle ".
Thus, Singer's first patent is not the patent " on a needle for the sewing machine with
an aperture at the sharp end ".
Singer in the description to the first patent itself specifies on invented by him " new and useful "
the improvements stated in five items and which in the reduced statement can be reduced to
to the following:
• the coordination of movement of a shuttle and a needle for formation of a reliable stitch;
• adjustment of a tension of a string at formation of a stitch;
• other mechanism for movement of the fabric, consisting of a wheel with Gear, placed under a fabric
and a rod pressing a fabric from above that allows to adjust length of stitches to sew indirect
seams;
• accommodation of the coil with threads on consoles, which position is adjusted, that allows
to adjust length of a loop.
it is Interesting, that the experts studying a history of creation of sewing machines, practically unanimously
a little differently formulate Singer's achievements.
In Singer's machine design the needle is located vertically, and a shuttle is horizontal. Thanking
to this the garment settles down on a table, it is possible to carry out continuous and not direct lines and
to avoid complication of a string.
the Fabric of a product nestles a paw, and moving of a fabric is made with the help of a cogwheel,
established under a table and located under a fabric.
the foot drive consisting of the shaking pedal and the rotating wheel Is entered, released hands
швеи4.
At that time in patent department alongside with
the description of the invention it was accepted
to represent and a working copy
the invented machine which named
" patent model ". As a matter of fact, it was direct
acknowledgement of criterion " industrial
practicability ". The submitted model of the first
Singer's sewing machine, commercial sewing
the machine at number 22, was kept here again
its photo executed

is resulted

1 This and other interesting facts are taken from edition Смитсоновского of institute of a history of technics and
technologies in Washington: " The Sewing Machine: Its Invention and Development " Cooper, Grace Rogers,
Published by Smithsonian Institution Washington DC, 1976.
2 See the specified source.
3 Translation of the formula is executed by A.P.Dyachenko.

SINGER'S PATENTS

During search on a site of patent department the USA it is revealed 20 patents given for a name
of Isaaka Merrita Singer.

4 In Singer's first machines of a foot drive was not, it(he) has appeared later.
5 Photo from the specified source.



Singer has received the First patent for a design of the sewing machine on August, 12 1851, the second patent
has been received in 1852. After that there comes a break till 1854. In 1854 - 1856 the inventor
receives record quantity of patents - 16. And further, after the ten years' break, two more
the patent.
Among the patents received by Singer, and in it each interested person can be convinced, there is no patent " on
a needle for the sewing machine with an aperture at the sharp end ". As it is represented, inventors sewing
machines and would not began to submit such application... Because such sewing needles by then
were known. For example, in 1755 Charles Vejzentalem had been received the patent
Britain № 701 on a two-edged needle for embroidery with ушком from one end of a needle. The patent of Britain № 30078 from October, 30, 1807 of Edward and William Hapmanov  on
the machine for manufacturing матерчатых belts or flat tapes in which needles with
ушком at the sharp end were used was known
also. The tailor from Vienna, Austrian Madersperger  in sewing
to the machine on which it in 1839 has received the patent, used a needle with ушком at the sharp end.
I. M. SINGER COMPANY
we Shall return to a considered stage of a history of sewing machines.
Having developed the machine, Singer has directed all energy on its(her) commercial use. The machine
has caused significant interest, and the first large order has acted in the same year. In 1851
the owner of the company alongside with Singer becomes lawyer Edward Clark, enclosing in
firm own means.

However soon Singer's successfully developing firm had to enter proceeding
with other inventor of sewing machine Eliasom Hou (Elias Howe) which in September, 1846
has received patent US 4750 on the design the sewing machine. And though the design sewing
Singer's machines differed from machine Hou, in it(her), in opinion Хоу, the same principle
works of a needle and a shuttle was applied.
Compare figures. In figure at the left (patent Хоу US 4750) the needle goes to designs on an arch,
practically горизонтально6, and in figure on the right (Singer's US patent 8294) the needle (b) goes
vertically.

In S.Blodzhetta's design and Дж. Лероу (patent US 6766) with which Singer was familiar at creation
the machine, a needle as well as in designs Хоу goes is horizontal.

In USA Хоу with the sewing machine could not become successful and has been compelled to leave for Britain.
Having returned to the USA in 1849 after long misadventures, Хоу starts to make, at last, the machines and, considering, that other manufacturers break his patent, initiates litigations, in
volume number against Singer. These processes last till 1854, get loud popularity and
the name " war of sewing machines ".

During judicial struggle against Eliasom Hou Singer also shows an ingenuity. A break
old magazines, it(he) finds a mention of Walter Hanta's sewing machine (Walter Hunt) which
uses the same principle, as machine Hou, but is created between 1832 and 1834. It(he) finds
the inventor and patent US 11161, the publication on June, 27, 1854 helps it(him) to receive. The given patent
reflected Hunt's contribution to creation of the sewing machine, but the court has rejected his(its) claims. The commissioner
Patent department Charles Mason  wrote:

" When the first inventor allows the opening to sleep within 18 years, at full

impossibility to finish it(him) up to a condition of active use and when it is revived only

for replacement and suppression of the invention which is already transferred(handed) to a society and which already has

practical use, all reasonable bases should be for the benefit of the inventor,

which became itself means of reception of real benefits all over the world "

Hunt's patent has not helped Singer with upholding his interests. During time of " patent war " Singer began
to patent actively improvements of the design. During this period he receives 16 patents.

THE AGREEMENT BETWEEN COMPETITORS

In 1854 the parties involved in "war", have sat down a negotiating table and have agreed on the basis of the
patents to operate in common, to create certain " the general patent " on " combined sewing
the machine ". In this agreement the question was "association" of the following patents: US 4750 - Howe; US 8296
- Wilson; US 6439 - Bachelder; US 8294, 8876 - Singer; US 7931 - Grover *amp; Baker, and also patent Morey *amp;
Johnson, data about which it was not possible обнаружить8. The agreement provided allocation
патентовладельцам shares of the profit from sales of machines.
It is necessary to notice, that by this time Singer's company has got rights on some patents,
participating in dispute, in particular, on patent US 6439 (Bachelder). These purchases have appreciablly strengthened
Singer's position in the agreement.
In the agreement the contribution of each of participants has briefly been reflected.
Singer's Contribution has been formulated as follows: " a cam in the form сердечка for movement
a core with a needle inserted into him ". Surprises, that the contribution of other inventors modern
to the reader seems to more powerful. Certainly, these formulations should not give big
value, it was result of the compromise. Singer on his basis won for business much,
therefore formulations of the contribution likely for him were not important.
Contribution Хоу which has been marked on the first position, was formulated so: " Желобчатая with an aperture
a needle used with a shuttle, for formation of a shuttle stitch ".
Such formulation was not in patent Хоу (US 4750), interested persons can of it easily will be convinced.
However this formulation from the agreement also could be a basis of that legend about ideal
the patent which till now reigns over minds(wits) of inventors.
After the conclusion of the agreement Singer's company had no obstacles to a gain of the market.
Entered into the agreement, Хоу also has won. From each machine sold in the USA it was necessary to it(him) 5 $,
from each machine sold abroad - 1 $. During the period with 1856 for 1867 it(he) has received not less
two millions долларов9.
Singer's US 60433 Last two patents, on December, 11 1866 and US 61270, on January, 15 1867 on
прямострочную the sewing machine, as a matter of fact, are generalization of all achievements of Singer. Formulas
these patents are made briefly and precisely.

7 See the specified source.
8 it is Possible, it was patent US 10597.
9 the Specified source.

DURING NECESSARY TIME IN THE NECESSARY PLACE

We shall result the schedule of patent activity in
the USA in the field of sewing machines in
considered(examined) years. It is visible, that dates
receptions of patents by Singer coincide with
rise изобретательской activity in
this area. After 1857 the account
the given patents went already on hundreds. Among
patents of those years there are also patents for needles, in
volume number for sewing machines. In quality
examples it is possible to refer to patents
US 11769 - Вилкокс and Витридж (Wilcox *amp;
Bhitridge), 1854; US 17272 -
Garvey, 1857; US 29648 - Drake,
1860. However they have no attitude to
Singer's to machine and anothers commercially
to successful sewing machines.

Singer was the inventor who has created an efficient design which all time
has improved. However it has not received the patent for the sewing machine with a foot drive, introduction
which in a design as we remember, historians of technics(technical equipment) highly estimate. When Singer's attention
have turned on this circumstance, was already late, the foot drive was openly applied already more than two
years.
Singer's Sewing machine has been created when the society was ready to accept and
to use the sewing machine. Singer and Clark's firm aggressively and very successfully used
various kinds of advertising and sales worldwide.

The legend about the ideal patent does not prove to be true the facts. There was no Singer's patent for a needle for
the sewing machine with an aperture at the sharp end, there was no such patent and at other his(its) inventors
time.
What value Singer's patents have played histories of sewing machines?
On the one hand, not so big. It is impossible to assert, that they have been especially successfully made.
we Shall recollect, for example, first patent US 8294 - special generalizations, from the point of view патентоведа ours
time, it does not contain. And the missed opportunity of reception of the patent for use foot
a drive in the sewing machine too about much speaks.
On the other hand if Singer did not have patents it, probably, could not make the
the machine so successfully, and precisely could not come to the agreement with Хоу and others патентовладельцами.
And the main thing - in success of his sewing machines a huge role has played a successful combination of all factors:
изобретательских, industrial, commercial and patent. Very important with new and good
a product to appear during necessary time in the necessary place.